Wat Chedi Luang's ruined brick chedi seen from above, surrounded by the roofs of the old city

The Lanna capital

The temples, and how many you actually need

Around three hundred temples in the city. Here are the nine that earn a place in a short stay.

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Chiang Mai was founded in 1296 as the capital of the Lanna kingdom, and it built temples the way other capitals built palaces. That is the whole reason the city looks the way it does: a moat, a grid of low streets, and a golden roof at the end of most of them.

The trap is obvious once you are here. Everything is walkable, everything is free or nearly free, and by the fourth temple in one morning they stop registering. Three in a day is a good day. Five is a chore you will not remember.

Before you walk in

Shoulders and knees covered, for everyone. This is not a suggestion and it is not aimed at women only, since men in shorts get turned away from the ordination halls too. The bigger temples lend sarongs at the entrance, usually for a small deposit, but relying on that in the middle of a hot afternoon queue is a bad plan.

Two monks in orange robes walking along a pavement past a temple wall

Shoes come off before you enter any building, never before you enter the grounds. Watch where everyone else has left theirs. Inside, sit with your feet tucked behind you: pointing the soles of your feet at a Buddha image is the one piece of etiquette that genuinely offends.

Most temples are free and live on donations. A handful of the famous ones charge foreigners a small admission, generally in the range of 20 to 50 baht. Carry coins and small notes: the donation boxes are the point, and nobody can break a thousand.

The one everyone comes for

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep sits at about 1,050 metres on the mountain that closes the western horizon, roughly fifteen kilometres from the old city. It was founded in 1383, and the story is that a white elephant carrying a relic climbed the mountain, trumpeted three times and died on the spot, which settled the question of where to build.

Visitors crossing the gilded terrace of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep after dark

Go at opening or in the last hour of light. Between ten and four it is a car park with a temple attached. A red songthaew from near the zoo runs up the mountain and will not leave until it fills; a Grab up and a songthaew down is the cheap compromise. From the base there are 306 steps flanked by two long naga serpents, or a funicular if the knees say no.

The terrace at the top looks straight down over the city and the plain. On a clear morning in December you can see the airport. In March you will see grey, and there is no polite way to say otherwise.

Inside the old city

The elephant-based chedi of Wat Chiang Man, the oldest temple inside the walls

These three are within twenty minutes' walk of each other, and together they are a genuinely good half-day.

Wat Chedi Luang

Prapokklao Road · small foreigner fee

The best ruin in northern Thailand. The chedi went up in 1441 and stood at something close to eighty metres until an earthquake took the top off in the sixteenth century. What is left is a vast brick mass with elephants along the base, and it is far more affecting than it would be intact. The Emerald Buddha, now in Bangkok, lived here for most of a century. Come in the afternoon and you can sit down with a student monk under the trees. The Monk Chat tables are signposted, the conversation is free, and they are practising their English on you as much as you are asking about their life.

Wat Phra Singh

West end of Ratchadamnoen · small foreigner fee

The busiest temple in the old city and the one people photograph. Walk past the big modern hall to the Wihan Lai Kham at the back: a small wooden building with gold stencil on red lacquer and murals of nineteenth-century Lanna life, painted on the walls at eye level. That room is the reason to come. Give it fifteen minutes rather than three.

Wat Chiang Man

North-east corner of the old city · free

The oldest temple in the city, begun in 1296 while the walls themselves were going up, and the quietest of the three. The chedi is held up by a row of elephants emerging from the brickwork. Two small and very old Buddha images sit in the side hall behind glass. Almost nobody is here, which after Wat Phra Singh is worth a great deal.

Worth leaving the moat for

A brick tunnel at Wat Umong leading to a Buddha image at the far end

Wat Pha Lat

Monk's Trail, Doi Suthep road · free by road

Our favourite, and the one most visitors never hear about. A half-ruined temple in the forest halfway up Doi Suthep, built around a stream, with moss on the stonework and almost no one there. You can drive to it, but the point is the Monk's Trail: about an hour uphill from the trailhead behind Chiang Mai University, marked by strips of orange cloth tied around the trees. The temple is free by road, but since October 2025 the national park has charged a fee to use the trail: 100 baht for foreign adults at the time of writing, less for children and Thai visitors. Visitors reaching Wat Pha Lat or Wat Phra That Doi Suthep by road do not pay it. Wear real shoes and go in the morning.

Wat Umong

Suthep, west of the city · free

A forest temple from around 1297 with brick tunnels cut into a mound, lined with old Buddha images and lit badly on purpose. Outside there is a lake, a lot of trees, and proverbs in English nailed to the trunks. It is a working meditation centre, so the quiet is real rather than curated.

Wat Suan Dok

Suthep Road · free

Come for the last half hour of daylight. The royal cemetery of the Lanna princes is a field of whitewashed chedis, and when the sun drops behind Doi Suthep the whole thing turns orange against a black mountain. It is the best sunset in the city and it costs nothing.

Wat Sri Suphan

Wualai Road · small fee

The silver temple, in the old silversmiths' quarter, with an ordination hall covered inside and out in hand-beaten silver and aluminium panels. Two honest caveats: women are not allowed inside the ordination hall, which is a monastic rule and not negotiable, and the whole thing is modern craftwork rather than an antiquity. Go on a Saturday evening and fold it into the Wualai walking street.

Wat Ban Den

Mae Taeng, about 50 km north

An hour out of town and completely over the top: a hillside of gold and red pavilions, twelve zodiac pagodas, dragons on every railing. It is recent, it is not subtle, and it is a genuinely astonishing thing to stand in front of. Usually paired with a Mae Taeng day out rather than visited alone.

What we would skip

The Wat Phra That Doi Kham big Buddha is a fine view and a real local pilgrimage site, but if you have already done Doi Suthep you are repeating yourself on a smaller scale.

Any temple sold to you as a stop on a shopping-and-handicraft-village day trip. The temple is the excuse; the two hours in the jade factory are the business model.

The three-temple day we would actually do

Doi Suthep at opening, down the mountain by eleven. Lunch in the old city. Wat Chedi Luang in the afternoon when the monk-chat tables are out, and Wat Suan Dok for the last of the light on the way back. That is the whole city in one day, and you will still be able to tell the three of them apart in a year.

The weathered brick flank of Wat Chedi Luang's chedi against a clear sky

Days out that go with this

See all 26 tours
A monk in orange robes photographing the teak roof of a Lanna temple in the old city of Chiang Mai

7 tours

Guided Temple Tours

Guided temple tours, from old city walks and Doi Suthep to full days beyond the walls.

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Practical

Travel info

How to get in from the airport, how to move around without being overcharged, and the single most important thing to know before choosing your dates.

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Elephants

Every camp around Chiang Mai now calls itself a sanctuary. The word alone tells you little. Here is what to look at instead, what your money actually pays for, and what nobody selling you a day out can honestly promise.

Four markets

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Four of them, not fourteen. Which one you want depends on the night of the week and on whether you came here to eat or to buy something.

2,565 metres

Doi Inthanon

Worth a full day from November to May, for the ridge, not the summit. Outside those months we would spend the day somewhere else.

Common questions

How many temples should I see in Chiang Mai?

Three or four across a short stay, chosen for variety rather than volume: one mountain temple, one ruin, one forest temple. Beyond that they blur together, and every visitor we have ever met agrees on this after the fact.

What should I wear to visit a temple in Chiang Mai?

Shoulders and knees covered, men and women alike. Shoes are removed before entering any building. Larger temples lend sarongs at the entrance, usually against a small deposit, but it is easier to carry a light scarf.

Do I have to pay to enter temples in Chiang Mai?

Most are free and funded by donation. A few of the well-known ones (Doi Suthep, Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Phra Singh) charge foreign visitors a small admission, typically between 20 and 50 baht. Bring small notes.

What is the best time of day to visit Doi Suthep?

Opening time, or the last hour before sunset. The middle of the day brings every tour bus in the province, and the view over the city is at its clearest in the early morning.

Can I visit the temples without a guided tour?

Easily, and for the temples inside the old city you do not need one to get in: they are within walking distance of one another and cost almost nothing. What a guided walk buys inside the walls is the story, which is why the two three-hour old city tours above exist. Beyond that, a tour earns its place for Doi Suthep if you would rather not deal with transport, and for the Chiang Rai temples, which are three hours away.